Nestled in the Périgord vert, the église Sainte-Marie de Bourg-des-Maisons houses a little-known treasure: frescoes from the early seventeenth century depicting saint Christophe, sainte Catherine and Christ carrying his cross, of a rare pictorial eloquence.
In the heart of the Périgord Vert, in this discreet corner of the Dordogne that the major tourist routes hardly ever visit, the church of Sainte-Marie de Bourg-des-Maisons conceals a major surprise: a collection of wall frescoes of remarkable quality and conservation, listed as a Monument Historique since 1913. This modest village, lost in the bocage countryside in the north of the département, boasts a pictorial heritage that rivals many of the region's most famous shrines. What makes Sainte-Marie truly unique is the presence of these murals nestling in a Gothic pointed arch on the left wall of the choir. Three hagiographic scenes cover an area of almost eleven square metres: Saint Christopher carrying the Infant Jesus, Christ walking under the weight of the cross accompanied by a mysterious helmeted figure, and Saint Catherine of Alexandria leaning on her sword, the wheel of her martyrdom visible behind her. Each iconographic detail bears witness to a solid theological and artistic culture, rooted in the post-Tridentine Catholic tradition. The visit is an intimate and striking experience. In the golden half-light of a Romanesque building, visitors discover these frescoes as they would an illuminated manuscript: gradually, with the astonishment of finding so much richness in so much simplicity. The colours, though faded by the centuries, retain an expressive vigour that immediately strikes a chord with those sensitive to medieval and Renaissance sacred art. The village's rural setting, surrounded by meadows and forests typical of non-touristy Périgord, adds to the charm of the discovery. Far from the hustle and bustle of the over-visited sites of the Dordogne, Sainte-Marie offers an authentic encounter with French rural heritage in all its discreet dignity.
The church of Sainte-Marie de Bourg-des-Maisons belongs to the large family of Romanesque buildings in Périgord, characterised by their sober, massive architecture, inherited from the building traditions of late Antiquity and adapted to medieval liturgical needs. The layout is probably of the simplified basilica type, with a single nave or central nave flanked by narrow aisles, ending in a choir with a flat or slightly rounded chevet, as was customary in the region in the 12th century. The walls, probably built of local limestone rubble, bear witness to the solidity characteristic of the Périgord Romanesque school. The most remarkable architectural feature of the interior is the pointed arch framing the 17th-century frescoes on the left wall of the choir. This arch, in the Gothic tradition, marks a phase in the building's transformation that probably took place between the 13th and 15th centuries, when the Gothic style gradually penetrated the Périgord countryside. The opening is large enough to accommodate a pictorial field measuring 3.45 metres wide by 3.25 metres high, an area of around eleven square metres - a generous size for a rural church. The frescoes themselves are an architectural element in their own right, integrated into the wall like a painted altarpiece. Their technique, using tempera on plaster, is representative of decorative practices in western France at the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries. The composition in superimposed registers, with the scene of the Carrying of the Cross at the top and the figures of the saints at the bottom, respects the traditional iconographic hierarchy that places Christological scenes above hagiographic representations.
Closed
Check seasonal opening hours
Bourg-des-Maisons
Nouvelle-Aquitaine