Eglise paroissiale Saint-Cyr et Sainte-Julitte
ChurchHidden Treasure
Built in the heart of Saint-Cyr-sur-Loire, this church, dedicated to the martyrs Cyr and Julitte, is a true example of Loire Romanesque architecture, with its squat bell tower and sculpted capitals of rare finesse.
© Wikimedia Commons
History
Nestling in the urban fabric of Saint-Cyr-sur-Loire, a commune in the inner suburbs of Tours on the right bank, the parish church of Saint-Cyr-et-Sainte-Julitte is one of those local buildings that conceal much more than their apparent modesty might suggest. Listed as a Historic Monument since 1926, it bears witness to centuries of religious continuity in a town whose identity is inextricably linked to the Loire and its great medieval past. What sets the building apart is the coherence of its architectural corpus: far from the great cathedrals that draw the crowds, Saint-Cyr church offers an almost intimate interpretation of Touraine Romanesque art, with its measured volumes, thick walls pierced by narrow semi-circular bays and the discreet dialogue between blond tufa stone and Anjou slate on the roofs. Tuffeau, the king of Touraine stone, gives the interior facings a golden glow that is particularly striking in the late afternoon. Visitors are invited to take a slow stroll around the building, first passing through the western porch to appreciate the modenature of the voussoirs, then discovering the capitals in the nave, with their interlacing plant motifs, typical of the Romanesque workshop in the Loire Valley. The slightly raised choir provides an axial view of the bays, which frame the light with the precision of a goldsmith. The urban setting of Saint-Cyr-sur-Loire, with its cobbled streets around the church and the proximity of the Loire just a few hundred metres away, adds an extra touch of charm to the visit. Stendhal and Balzac, both children of Touraine, walked the banks of the Loire, and it's easy to imagine that the bell tower was the sound of their childhood bells. For visitors in a hurry coming from Tours, the church is a quality stopover, complementing the great royal residences of the Loire Valley.
Architecture
The church of Saint-Cyr-et-Sainte-Julitte is fully in keeping with the Touraine Romanesque tradition, characterised by the almost exclusive use of tuffeau, the soft, luminous limestone quarried from the cliffs of the Loire Valley. It has a simple basilica layout, with a main nave flanked by narrow side aisles, a transept with little projection and a choir with a semicircular apse facing east in accordance with the liturgical rule. The bell tower, raised above the transept crossing or at the junction of the nave and facade depending on the successive alterations, has the massive appearance and semi-circular arched bays typical of 11th-12th century Romanesque architecture in the Loire Valley. On the outside, the walls are punctuated by lésènes and friezes of small Lombard arches under the cornices, a legacy of the Italian influences that travelled up the Loire Valley with the pilgrims. The portals feature voussoirs with moulded corbels and tori, framed by engaged columns whose capitals, carved in tufa stone, feature a repertoire of plant foliage, masks and fantastical animals. The Anjou slate roof, bluish and shiny in the rain, contrasts elegantly with the straw yellow of the facings. Inside, the nave reveals a sober elevation where the eye is drawn towards the choir by the repetition of double arches and half-columned pillars. Traces of medieval polychromy have probably been preserved under successive layers of whitewash. The furnishings reflect all the major periods: Romanesque baptismal fonts, Baroque-style altarpieces, 18th-century wood panelling and 19th-century grisaille stained glass windows.
Related Figures
Saints Cyr et Julitte — martyrs cappadociens du IVe siècle, patrons titulaires de l'égliseGrégoire de Tours (538-594) — évêque de Tours et historien, dont l'autorité spirituelle couvrait les premières fondations cultuelles de la régionFoulques Nerra (970-1040) — comte d'Anjou, grand bâtisseur d'églises en Touraine, dont l'influence encouragea la reconstruction romane des sanctuaires ligériensHonoré de Balzac (1799-1850) — enfant de Tours, qui connaissait intimement le paysage religieux des communes riveraines de la LoireAndré Salmon (1881-1969) — poète et critique d'art né à Paris mais enraciné en Touraine, qui évoqua dans ses écrits les clochers de la Loire
